Floorcare protection procedure


The hardness of marble falls approximately halfway between granite (the hardest) and limestone (the softest). In gritty areas Composite Marble Tiles require the protection of a sacrificial, stain resistant and highly adhesive coating system.  Because of its tendency to scratch, these surfaces require a softer coating than synthetic tiles.  This allows easier repairability from scratching and easier burnishing response.  A base coat and a topcoat give the most durable result.

Evaluation of new surface

Usually at handover of a new building the builders will have employed a contractor to place a protective finish over the surface.  This is usually not a sophisticated coating system and should be considered temporary protection and not used as the base for a long term floor.  Stripping this surface is essential for the best results.

Existing Coating Surface

Light Soil / Dull Floor

If the building has been in use for some time and the floor surface has yellowed and marked with surface soil penetration and scuffs / stains, cutting back and recoating will be necessary to restore that "clean clear" look to the tile.

Heavy Soil 

If surface is heavily soiled or showing black heel marks and is dull, dirty and not responding to maintenance the surface coating may have worn too badly for restoration by cutting back and recoating.  Stripping is the only alternative.

How to bring floors back to life

Light Cutback 

Because Composite Tile Marble gives less adhesion than Terrazzo, a less aggressive detergent will be required on this surface to preserve surface integrity.  Use Supastar or Neutraclean or Orange Squirt from CITRUS RESOURCES range of products.  Dilute these products between 1 to 25 to 1 to 40 parts water.  Wet mop apply or double Autoscrub using a red or even a blue pad.  Dust mop then dry burnish.

Heavy Cutback / Recoat 

It is unusual to heavily cut back marble due to the dangers of removing all the finish - stripping not cutting back, is recommended. Using Orange Squirt or Crossfire Cleaner Degreaser at 1 to 25 parts water.  Wet mop apply using a cotton mop or fringe mop for larger areas.  Scrub or autoscrub using a green or blue pad.  Dust mop then recoat with Filmstar.

Dry Stripping - Small areas

To dramatically reduce costs of wet stripping small areas in traffic funnels - like hotel lobbies, shopping centre entrances, try dry stripping using Sledgehammer at 1 to 10 parts water in a spray bottle.  Just lightly mist over the surface, wait 5 minutes, then dry buff off with a brown pad.  Dust mop prior to recoating - there is no need to rinse the surface.

P.S.  If dry stripping it's not working you are either overwetting the floor or not waiting long enough for the stripper to activate.

Total Stripping - Larger areas

Flood mop apply stripper with fully laden cotton or fringe mops using Steamroller II. This stripper will remove the most resistant base sealers and finishes including most solvent based sealer.

Dilute Steamroller II 1 to 4 parts cold water where heavy duty sealers are used and 1 to 6 if regular sealer finishes have been used. Do not let dry.

Machine scrub with High Performance black or regular black pads if a rotary hand held scrubber is used. Rinse floor with Neutro at 1 to 75 to remove any alkali residue.

Autoscrub method 

Mix desired stripper concentration in tank.  Lay solution down with Autoscrubber brushes turning and vacuum off.  Allow 10 minutes to 20 minutes to activate, double scrub and pick to waste solution. Rinse floor with Neutraclean to remove any alkali residue. Dust mop when dry (no need to rinse), dry burnish dust mop, then apply new sealer and finish.

New Floors - Removal of builders finish

Because builders finishes are usually a one product system our lower cost Sledgehammer diluted 1 part to 4 parts cold water should be used in place of Steamroller II.

Use method described in Total Stripping large areas.

Applying Sealer & Finish System

To gain the maximum life a system that has extremely high adhesion is required.  We have developed Blockade Sealer for Composite Marble Tiles.  This is a penetrating sealer with a rubbery toughness that resists scratch off abrasion.  It also has high resistance to spills and stain penetration.  It is non yellowing even in strong U.V light.  To provide surface gloss, scuff resistance and gloss response to buffing Marbletech, Filmstar or Glazer is the recommended topcoat over Blockade. To prolong life (every six or eight weeks) in ultra heavy traffic conditions.

Apply 2 coats of Blockade to Tiles. Marbletech, Filmstar or Glazer topcoat can be coated until the surface gloss is high enough, usually 2 to 4 coats.

Glazer sealer finish has worked brilliantly over Blockade and gives the longest life.

Applying Sealer

Using Polyester cotton polish mop (not fringe mop), apply a thin first coat of Blockade, waiting until the floor is dry and does not grip your shoes.  Usually 15 to 20 minutes.  Second coat is slower to dry and if humid can require up to 40 minutes dry time.

Applying Topcoats

Apply topcoat in the same manner as Blockade above with thin even coats crossing the previous coat to give evenness.  This finish glides over the floor and must be allowed between 15 to 30 minutes between coats.  DO NOT APPLY over four coats of sealer & finish at the one time.  Apply further coats the second night, this will avoid powdering.


Using either a mop/ bucket or an Autoscrubber, a correct cleaning programme will ensure the floor looks clean with a wet-look gloss.

Heavy Traffic Areas

Dust mop floor.  Use a two bucket mopping system using Neutraclean and apply at 1 to 75 cold water and apply this with a wet mop and rinse off with the second clean water solution after 10 minutes (dry mop).  This keeps the dirt out of the floor.  Dry burnish with U.H.S machine fitted with a clean Jackaroo light pad or coconut pad for extra life.

Light Soil - Damp Mopping

Use a single bucket system and after dust mopping, use a well wrung mop using Neutraclean at up to 1 to 120 parts cold water.


After dust mopping Autoscrub with tan or red pads (depending on soil level) using Neutraclean at 1 to 80 parts cold water. To extend life and appearance between cut back and recoats, use Rebound Restorer through the autoscrubber at 1 to 80 parts water once a week instead of Neutraclean. This is particularly effective in removing "spiderwebbing"of floor in strong sunlight. Dry burnish with U.H.S machine fitted with a clean Jackaroo light pad or Blue Ice pad for extra life.

Dust Control - Reduce wear and prevent slip

Dust mop floor frequently to remove cutting grit during the day.  Install dust mats at entrances.

Slip Testing Report - Risk Management

Independent testing has shown Research Products Filmstar has consitently met or exceeded Autralian Standard AS/N. 24586 Dry and has had considtentl readings of above .35 when tested by the Pendulum Method, which equates to an X rating. Copies of test are available on request.